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KIT
VERSION

This text is for the old kit version, the new tutorial for the assembled
shield has
moved to http://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-data-logger-shield

Overview

This page will run through the schematic, explaining whats going on and why
picked the parts we did!

Here's the 'big picture' schematic for reference

Power
supply

There is a small power supply on the board for generating 3.3V @
250mA. We don't use the 'built in' 3.3v regulator on the Arduino because its
only guaranteed up to 50mA and some SD card need a lot of power when writing.
This supply is nice and steady, we can use it as an analog reference too! We
have two sets of bypass caps to try and keep both 5V and 3.3V supply nice and
clean - the 100uF ones are for the low frequency noise and 0.1 for higher
frequency

Real
Time Clock

The real time clock is the DS1307 from Maxim, which has a
battery backup (CR1220) and communicates with the Arduino via i2c (the SCL and
SDA lines). i2c requires pullup resistors on the clock and data lines, which you
see as R1 and R2. 2.2K are good values, but if
you're in a bind, 1.0K to 10K will probably work fine.

The RTC requires a single 12.5pF load crystal at 32.768 KHz,
Q1 - this is how it keeps time

There are also two LEDs for general purpose blinkin' - we like
to use them to tell when the SD card is being written to.

SD card
interface

The SD card holder is connected to the Arduino through a buffer
IC3. The buffer is a level shifter, converting the 5V signals
into 3.3V ones which are safe to use. (For some cards its OK to use 5V signals
but you risk the card being permanently damaged!) There is a pull up on the CS
line so that if you program the Arduino with a ISP programmer while theres a
card in, you wont scramble it.

There are two 'unused' lines from the SD card - Card
Detect is shorted to ground when a card is inserted. Write
Protect is shorted to ground when a card with the safety switch flipped
is inserted.

Arduino
interface!

Finally we have the arduino interface. The Datalogger shield
uses 6 pins. Analog 4 and 5 are the i2c
hardware pins. The SD card uses Digital pins 13,
12, 11, and 10. The first
three are pretty much required. If you really need pin 10, you
can edit the library header file and change it from pin 10 to any other pin.
BUT you must have pin 10 as an output, if its an input, the SD
interface wont work (its a really annoying thing about AVRs - not sure why this
is). A standard 6 pin ISP header is available in case you want to program the
Arduino with code using a stand-alone programmer

There is also a RESET button, handy when you want to start
the Arduino over!

April 12, 2013 11:27